One thing lifestyle editor Dianne Bourne has learned in over 25 years covering Manchester's food and drink scene is never to try and second guess those mysterious Michelin Guide inspectors. She knows they secretly gather to scrutinise the best of the best in the culinary world and then once a year, pop out the verdict of who is worthy of the most coveted of all foodie awards - the Michelin Star.

For 40 years, Manchester was a Michelin star desert. Now, it’s home to two of them with Mana in Ancoats and the newest incumbent, Skof on Federation Street. Dianne said: "This hunt for Michelin stars all started in 2014 when two different Michelin-adorned chefs both revealed their plans to open fine dining spots in the city, with speculation that one - or both- could finally bag a Star for Manchester city centre. Problem was, the BBC also cottoned on to this idea, and decided to film both chefs and their teams for what became perhaps a rather overcooked series about it all.

"The ensuing documentary, "Restaurant Wars: The Battle for Manchester" followed Simon Rogan as he opened his own restaurant at The French at the Midland while Aiden Byrne, famous as the youngest ever recipient of a Michelin Star, was busy opening Manchester House with the late, great Tim Bacon on Spinningfields."

Neither chef was victorious, but Dianne brings up the whole tale as she recently visited Aiden’s newest Manchester restaurant - Restaurant Li-Ly.

She said: “He's cooking like a man who really couldn't care less if Michelin approve of him or not because he knows, and anyone who dines there knows, this is really something special.

“Walking along the rather gorgeous period cottage-clad King Street in Knutsford to get to Aiden's Restaurant Li-Ly, feels a bit like stepping back in time. And arriving at our destination for dinner takes us even further back in the history books.

“Aiden and wife Sarah took on the Grade II listed, timber clad 48 King Street last year, and set about transforming this 400-year-old building (with the help of a well-backed Crowdfunder) to become a quirky white-washed multi-levelled restaurant space that feels modern and mysteriously ancient all at the same time.”

She visited on a Saturday night and was seated by the window, which she said was “excellent” for people watching.

“The seasonal menus are unashamedly fine dining, and in the evening taster menus are priced at £90,” she said.

“They're set menus, but there's a good range of options for those with food allergies and intolerances as you can have shellfish-free, gluten-free or a vegetarian menu. The tasting menu at lunchtimes is a reduced selection for £60. Yes, I know it's expensive, but as we were to discover worth every penny of that.

“Things get off to a flying start with our meal, with the arrival of sweetcorn macaroons. Sounds grim doesn't it, but my goodness the hit of savoury with sweet - a slice of cured scallop next to white chocolate and bergamot ganache was genius.”

After that, it was on to the next course.

“A dish of Field 28 New Season Carrots - grown just down the road in Warrington. The sign of a great chef to me is one who can turn vegetables into a delicacy - and here they're like shards of crystal joy.

“Another thing the mysterious Michelin lot wants to find in a Star-worthy restaurant (so I'm told) is the finest fresh baked bread. And you've most definitely got it here - one of the standout courses of the meal Aiden delivers himself to each table is a giant, shiny brown orb of buttermilk carb delight, topped with hefty shavings of Yorkshire pecorino cheese.

“The dreamy bread is brought alongside the most beautiful plate of St Helena cheese mousse with creamed morel mushrooms and a delicately weaved wafer. It's just one joyful dish of food after the other, with every mouth an education of flavours.”

From there, Dianne sampled butter poached cod and a substantial herb fed chicken dish.

She said: “Dessert continues to offer up some revelations - with a bowl of what is described as coffee, mushroom and yukon gold being unlike any sweet I've eaten before, but most definitely want to try again. It's without doubt one of the best meals I've eaten in the past year.

“Service throughout has been super friendly, with the waiting staff dressed in casual aprons and t-shirts to signal that this is not a place that wants to feel stuffy or old-fashioned.

“At the end of the meal I have a quick chat to thank chef for the exceptional food we've enjoyed.”

Aiden told Dianne:“"I've always served food that other people want me to do to some extent, but now I'm cooking what I want to cook."

As for Dianne’s verdict - the restaurant is a renowned success.

She said: “Restaurant Li-Ly is standout - and having dined at both of Manchester's Michelin Star venues Mana and Skof in recent times I can state my belief that this place stands at their level.

And if the mysterious Michelin men and women fail to see it? Then they're the ones missing out.”