Pierpaolo Piccioli has been named creative director of renowned French couture house Balenciaga, the latest in a series of moves across the upper echelons of the fashion industry. The appointment follows the departure of controversial former creative director Denma to Gucci in March.

Under Denma, Balenciaga became known for a “memecore” approach to high fashion, creating novelty garments from towel skirts to handbags shaped like coffee cups. Piccolli’s appointment suggests a shift away from this approach at the respected fashion house, which was founded by Cristóbal Balenciaga in 1919.

At his previous role at Valentino – which he held from 2008 to 2024 – Piciolli was known for soft, feminine and elegant designs.

Both Balenciaga and Gucci are owned by one of the world’s largest luxury conglomerates, Kering, which also owns Yves Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Alexander McQueen.

In a statement, newly appointed Balenciaga CEO Gianfranco Gianangeli said: “I’m excited to begin this new era at Balenciaga with Pierpaolo. His creative vision will thrive, and he will perfectly interpret the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga, building on the House’s bold creativity, rich heritage and strong culture.”

Piccioli said the role, “gives me the chance to shape a new version of the Maison, adding another chapter with a new story”. His first collection for Balenciaga will debut in October 2025.

The change is one of many across the fashion industry in recent months. At rival conglomerate LVMH, longtime Loewe designer JW Anderson moved to a menswear role at Dior in April.

In January, Louise Trotter took the helm at Kering-owned Bottega Veneta, after Matthieu Blazy left the position for an artistic director role at Chanel.

In the past year, there have also been new appointments at Dries van Noten, Tom Ford, Givenchy and Calvin Klein.

The shake-up occurs against a downturn in the luxury goods industry. In 2024, Kering’s revenue fell by 12% while rival LVMH recorded a 1% annual dip.

Under Denma, Balenciaga never failed to generate headlines, but not all were positive. In 2023, the brand was forced to issue an apology after a campaign that featured teddy bears dressed in bondage-style leather harnesses, a controversy from which some analysts believe the brand never fully recovered.

Nevertheless, Denma’s move to Gucci – a brand four times the size – was a promotion for the designer.

In a statement, Francesca Bellettini, Kering deputy CEO thanked Denma for “the bold, distinctive vision he brought to Balenciaga over the past ten years”.

“I am convinced that Pierpaolo and Gianfranco will lead Balenciaga perfectly through this important new chapter of its remarkable history,” she said.