Shine on: your top 20 jewellery questions answered | Accessories




1. How do I know which pieces to wear on a night out?

I’m all about balance when it comes to styling. I can’t bear the thought of looking overdone, or as if I’ve tried too hard. So when I dress to go out, I’ll wear a pair of statement earrings and either a cuff or a statement ring. On the rare occasion that I wear a necklace, I won’t wear earrings unless they are really small, so as not to distract. For me, there must be just one hero piece to set off an outfit. Alexis Foreman, art director and style curator, @alexisforeman

2. As you age, bigger earrings and hoops can weigh down your ear, giving a saggy appearance. Is there a way to avoid this?

‘A lightweight earring doesn’t necessarily mean a small earring’ says Eliza and Brinker Higgens. Image: backstage at Schiaparelli Couture. Photograph: WWD/Getty Images

We believe that getting dressed and accessorising should be fun and freeing, and you should wear what makes you feel like “you” at any age. For a woman over 50, we recommend opting for an earring with more coverage on the ear, as well as larger earring backs, which offer support and can diminish sagging. A lightweight earring (which doesn’t necessarily mean a small earring!) can give the illusion of substance while still prioritising comfort. Eliza Higgins and Brinker Higgins, founders of Brinker + Eliza, @brinkerandeliza

3. How do I mix antique jewellery with modern pieces?

Try starting with a hero piece: maybe a dazzling vintage brooch or a chunky gold bracelet, something that makes a statement. Then, pair it with clean, contemporary designs – think sleek rings or a modern watch. The key is contrast: vintage pieces have a rich look, so balancing them with smooth, minimal, contemporary designs creates harmony. Don’t overthink it! Layering modern and vintage is about visual balance. Jewellery doesn’t just accessorise; it complements and elevates your entire look. So don’t hesitate to mix and match. Susan Caplan, renowned curator of vintage jewellery, @susancaplan

4. How can I achieve the quiet luxury look without spending a fortune? Is it just a case of wearing gold?

There is some excellent high-street and mid-priced designer jewellery that won’t break the bank. The key is to stick with gold. Nothing oozes luxury like the sheen of molten gold. However, forget demure, barely there pieces; this season it’s all about statement sculptural accessories. Bottega’s teardrop earrings, coiled bracelets and sculpted rings started the trend. The key is to make the singular piece do the talking. Whether it’s Tilly Sveaas’s signature T-bar on a chunky chain (Taylor Swift is a big fan), & Other Stories’ sculptural wrap necklace or Otiumberg’s oval hoops, plain or with discreet Pavé, the importance is to let that one piece do all the talking. Deborah Brett, fashion editor and designer, @deborahbrett

5. Is there a new twist on the curated ear?

Yes, the twist is that needing piercings to create a stacked look is gone. Our ear-cuff category is one of our bestselling, and we’ve seen all age groups buy into our sculptural cuffs, which layer up the ear effortlessly and comfortably. The layering of cuffs gives a bold, stacked and sophisticated look with absolutely no piercing required. Rosanna Wollenberg, co-founder of Otiumberg, @otiumberg

6. Are there rules for matching bracelets with necklaces, earrings and rings?

There are a few unwritten rules to tie everything together. I suggest sticking to one metal tone with similar motifs and surface finishing. For example, I’d pair an organically shaped bracelet with a different style of organic-looking chain necklaces, rounded earrings and rings in similar metal tones to create an interesting harmony. Yoon, founder of Tokyo-based jewellery website Ambush, @yoon_ambush

7. Are there any tips for wearing different-coloured jewellery, or what shade I should choose?

I like something that brings out your eye colour. Wear stones that enhance the colour of the outfit or clash with it – there is something fun about juxtaposing colours. I like to serve up the unexpected, rather than the obvious matchy-matchy. Ultimately, the stone colour just needs to speak to you. You need to feel great in it. Marisa Horden, founder and creative director of Missoma

8. Is it time to re-think the necklace stack and move on to a new look?

There is absolutely no need to ditch the necklace stack if it works for you. Let your necklace choices be an expression of you. That might mean wearing three chains, with or without pendants, of increasing length and size; or stacking two big, bold statement necklaces in the same shape, but made from different metals; this runs counter to the prescribed notion of wearing different sizes. Just have fun. Think, what makes me feel good here? That’s a very modern way of doing jewellery. Kenya Hunt, editor-in-chief, Elle UK

9. What’s the best way to achieve an instant style update?

Boho has been the big-hitter for the last few seasons: Chloé’s necklaces decorated with playful charms and pendants, to shells and creature motifs. This trend continues, but with a new twist and one that you can adopt – and even try a little DIY. Hammered silver and hand-cast pendants were spotted suspended from satin ribbons and shaggy strands of yarn at Dries van Noten. A trick you can use to adapt or transform your charms and pendants is to add a vibrant, corded ribbon or narrow upholstery cord to replace the chain, and fasten with a neat bow. Voilà! An instant update to your jewellery box, and easily changeable to work with any look. Beaded and glass-blown flowers as necklaces were used as finishing details at Bottega Veneta and Alberta Ferretti (Etsy has a great selection). Saint Laurent opted for pure opulence with statement cuffs, worn stacked or over sleeves. The Flowy Bangle from edblad.com (£95) and Wolf and Badger’s Abstract Gold Statement Cuff Bracelet (£60), elevate a blouse to runway status instantly. A Solange ring (hotlipsbysolange.co.uk, £215) in black cherry or bubble gum pink will give you an instant pop of colour and joy. Harriet Green, the Observer Magazine editor

10. Is it OK to re-design your engagement ring after you’ve worn it for years?

Semi-precious confetti domed ring by orelia.co.uk

Yes, it’s perfectly OK to go for a redesign. What I love about jewellery is that it carries memory; the stones have sentimental value. You don’t lose that when you reshape an old engagement ring into a new piece, or add new stones to it, or place it in a new setting or design. They carry the story of the moment and the engagement; it is still the same material. Some people like to add birthstones to represent the birth of their children, or add stones from a parent’s jewellery. The transformation of your original engagement ring can be a talking piece, and you can include your partner in that. Ruth Tomlinson, jeweller, @ruthtomlinsonjewellery

11. Five of the best affordable jewellers that should be on my radar?

My most complimented piece is the sparkly Christy ring from Daphine (£120), which I’ve had for four years and has yet to change shade – my best investment in terms of cost-per-wear. For similar at half the price, head to Orelia where prices start from £18. Whether you’re a chunky earring fan or your ears are peppered with delicate piercings, Seol & Gold is the place for interesting designs you can humblebrag about, with earrings starting at £6.40. If you’re on a budget but want your jewellery to look and feel expensive, turn your attention to the growing tarnish-free category. By Rae and Hey Harper are the waterproof brands to note, with pieces that look steeper than their price tags suggest. I swear by the latter, which operates on a the-more-you-buy-the-bigger-the-discount basis – dangerous territory if you’re a magpie like me. Krissy Turner, fashion and beauty director at Eliza, @misskrissyturner

12. How can I wear chunky necklaces without looking like an MP?

One way is to avoid wearing a chunky necklace with that stiff, formal day-dress, officewear look. Instead, wear a big necklace and dress it down. Underneath an open shirt, on top of bare skin. Or on top of a jumper, with jeans. The high-low mix is always a good one. Nice to wear with an evening dress or tux, too. Solange Azagury-Partridge, jewellery designer @solangeazagury

13. My husband recently bought me a necklace for my birthday that I just don’t like. What’s the best jewellery etiquette that doesn’t hurt his feelings?

I’d would wholeheartedly say hHonesty is the best policy. Otherwise, you’ll find him repeatedly buying you gifts you don’t like. Regardless of the fact you don’t like the necklace, it’s important to express genuine thanks for the thought and effort put into it. As far as etiquette goes, a thoughtful gift-giver should include a gift receipt. Include him when you return or swap the necklace, show him what you like and the pieces you don’t, and explain why. I suggest taking a leaf from another expert, Sophia Neophitou, and curate a selection of pieces you like and let your husband choose what he wishes to buy you. Jo Jones, fashion editor, the Observer Magazine

14. Is it possible to wear a pearl necklace without looking like an 80s Sloane Ranger?

Pearls and pearl jewellery are having a huge renaissance. They are no longer consigned to the archival looks of neat rows of pearls and chokers as worn by the late Diana, Princess of Wales. For me, pearls have become an everyday style staple and I love wearing and styling them for any occasion – workwear, formal and party looks and, most importantly, with a really casual outfit. And that’s my top tip: switch up your thinking and preconceptions of a pearl and throw them on with your most casual and effortless look: jeans and T-shirt or roundneck knit. Also layer, layer, layer to give your pearls a modern style refresh. Layer with chunkier or more delicate chains in gold and silver to create textural layers and add an edge, or even style with diamonds to add an extra dose of glam and lustre to your outfit. Drape your pearls, add different sizes and hues for a nod to 90s Chanel but decidedly 2024. There are some great finds on the high street: contemporary pearl jewellery that is much more organic, creative and architectural looking, from a freshwater pearl necklace at Cos for £65 to great Zara necklaces from £19.99. Emily Fitch Miller, fashion and creative art director, @emilyfitchm

15. Where’s a good place to buy an ethical, entry-level diamond ring?

There’s a lot of greenwashing in jewellery around recycled metals and lab-grown stones, so choose carefully. Most independent jewellers will be able to tell you the origin of their materials and the design will be more special. Lylie jewellery, specialising in ethical sourcing, offers a comparison guide online for mined, lab-grown and vintage diamonds. You can also send in your unworn jewellery and receive a credit voucher towards a new piece. Antique diamonds are another ethical way to shop, either through a jeweller or at auction. Consider coloured gemstones like tourmaline, aquamarine and white topaz as a more affordable alternative to diamonds as the price per carat is lower. There are a lot of jewellers specialising in this. Gee Woods is a good example, as she sources beautiful gems and sets them in more fashion-forward settings, and each is one of a kind. Fentonand.co offers an online build-your-own ring service; choose your stone, cut, metal, setting, etc, and the pricing is very transparent, so you don’t have to ask awkward questions about costs. Sarah Royce-Greensill, freelance jewellery editor, writer and consultant

16. Should I save my cocktail ring for special occasions and nights out?

Wear them anytime! No cocktail ring is too much for everyday. Putting jewellery on in the morning is part of your armour and, unlike a black silk party dress, you can wear a cocktail ring to the office – it’s not just for parties. I have a favourite 1940s one that’s like a gold walnut whip with a diamond that I wore every day for years. You might not be someone with a pink leopard coat, but jewellery is a way of expressing yourself in a less intense way. Think of it as a mini rebellion, particularly if you have to wear a uniform or clothing to work that doesn’t feel like you. Bear Brooksbank, jeweller

Mixing metals is a really good way to create a fun layered look. I particularly love stacking rings and bangles. I like wearing silver and gold on the same finger. I love adding a diamond pavé bangle in silver to a stack of gold cuffs and bangles. It’s a way of making diamonds look more casual, but it still looks curated. But I would encourage everyone to play with stacks: there are no rules and lots of lovely combinations when you play with scale, alternating textures and finishes. And it’s fine to mix gold, rose gold and silver, too. The trick is to let one area shine. If your wrists are stacked with tri-metal bangles, keep your earrings simple or skip a necklace altogether. Here are my top three tips: 1) Create a hero piece and build around it; 2) Keep styles cohesive: whether minimalist or bold, stick to a theme across your jewellery; 3) Layer textures – a smooth gold bangle paired with a hammered-silver cuff adds depth and dimension. Monica Vinader CEO and founder of Monica Vinader jewellery

18. What are the top tips for buying vintage jewellery?

My go-to vintage stores for fine jewellery are Liberty, where prices start at £250 for pearl earrings, and Grays Antique Market in London. The market is full of independent stallholders and stocks an amazing selection of vintage and new pieces. For unique heirloom fine jewellery that I will pass down through my family, I go to Pennisi in Milan. There are so many pieces online, but I’m the sort who likes to see things in person and know what I’m buying. The brilliant thing about antiques markets versus department stores is that you can haggle; expect to negotiate up to 20% off. I love Annina Vogel, who takes vintage pieces and mounts them in a modern way. For Christmas or birthdays, my husband likes to buy for me, but my taste is very specific, so I will shortlist three items from a favourite boutique, and he will choose one from that. It works beautifully because I get what I want, but it’s still a surprise. Sophia Neophitou, global editor-in-chief, 10 Magazine and 10 Men

19. How would you go about building a charm bracelet?

Charm bracelet by Astley Clarke.

Charm bracelets make excellent gifts, especially for an 18th or 21st birthday. I love a curated collection of charms acquired over time to mark milestones and memories. There are two main styles of bracelet: one with larger links (stations) at intervals to attach the charms, or squarer-looking open links with enough gaps to attach the charm anywhere on the bracelet. Many newer charms clip easily into place, like Astley Clarke’s (from £38) and lilycharmed.com’s biscuit charms (£40). With vintage charms, attach them with a jump ring and jewellery pliers (gift a set with the bracelet; Hobbycraft and Amazon sell sets). How you build it depends on personal aesthetic. If you prefer a certain level of uniformity, a Pandora bracelet will work well (charms from £25). My favourites are more unique charms found after a good rummage at an antiques market or a scroll on Etsy. Anninavogel.com specialises in Victorian solid-gold charms (from £150), with everything from tiny cake stands, to galleons, to an intricate gumball machine. If you’re impatient and want it already completed, Alex Monroe’s LOVE bracelet (£375) has a whimsical feel. Helen Seamons, stylist, the Observer Magazine

20. What’s the best way to shine and keep your jewellery clean?

Most reputable jewellers offer free basic cleaning, but care is needed since some gemstones and materials are sensitive to heat, chemicals and vibrations. Ultrasonic cleaners, which use water and detergent, are effective, but can be harsh on delicate pieces. At home, I always recommend people use a regular toothbrush (maybe one no longer in use for dental hygiene) with warm water and dish soap solution to gently clean their jewellery. Focus on hard-to-reach areas, like behind the stones. Rinse, shake off excess moisture and dry with a paper towel. A polishing cloth works well for larger surfaces, followed by rinsing and drying. For tarnish, use a silver-dip solution (mainly for silver or gold-plated pieces). Be sure to use in a well-ventilated area, as it contains ammonia and smells like bad eggs. Shine on! Stephen Webster MBE @stephenwebsterjewellery.



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Posted: 2024-12-15 02:15:14

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